Ladakh Trek Photo

KK Pass to Murgo

Ladakh Trek Photo

The snow melted away fast and soon we were on our way. The trail turned around and we entered another nala coming down from the pass. Moving along the way we reached the Polu where a memorial to Visser and Kaivan Mistry has been built. Just behind this memorial are the shelters built by old time travelers. Now they can be hardly called shelters but must have had quite an important stopping point for the caravans after crossing the KK pass. We continued on the river bed and moved towards the big hill coming into view on our right. That is the International border between India and China. As everywhere else in these open high altitude spaces the features which appear to be quite close, take hours to reach. Slowly we moved towards the pass, but where is it. It is difficult to reach it without any idea or having had a look at previous pictures. As we kept moving along the river instead of reaching the KK pass we reached the Kadpa Ngonpo la. It is marked with a wire mesh structure with a wire ring on top. So we reached the pass about which not much has been heard off. The route from this pass also goes to Yarkand along the river of same name. The weather had closed by now and it was very cold. But where was the destination for which we had undertaken this journey. Well we had left the trail leading to the KK pass a bit behind as we kept moving along the river. As you stand at pass looking towards China move your site to your right along the ridge line and if weather is fine you can see the small projection on it. That is the KKP ! We moved back and then saw the trail moving up the mountain side. A climb of 200 hundred meters and we were at the KK pass, which is marked by a structure which has been adored by the skulls of horses/ mules who had died on the trail. So finally we were at one of the most famous and historic passes linking India with China during the age of Caravans. A dream fulfilled, we took time at the pass looking around into China. A road reaches right up to the pass from China side, though other than the valley into which this road goes and the surrounding barren mountains there was nothing to see. As luck would have it the weather had improved as we had moved up to the pass and was again turning bad. Finally, one final glance at the bone structure and we were on our way back. Reached the river bed in no time and began our journey back along the river bed. As we stopped at the polu, we wondered about the tough journey undertaken by the old timers for the sake of lively hood and pilgrimage. The journey back to DBO was smooth and thereafter  we moved back to Track Junction camp. The weather was turning from bad to very bad and next day it was completely white. The Depsang plains had merged with the snow covered peaks in the distance. We decided to wait for the weather to improve a bit. By evening the snow had vanished and it was again old brown plains. So we decided to leave the camp next day. Next day also dawned white. Everything was covered with snow, however, we decided to move out. The Depsang plains were totally covered with white blanket and it seemed we were moving through some different terrain. Well slowly we moved and reached the Depsang la covered with snow.

As we moved down from the pass and into the gorge the snow reduced and the earlier dry water channels were full of water. The scene at the red nala had also changed. It was no longer a red nala but fresh clean water was flowing there and at much less volume. The Qazi Langar was having hardly any snow and the river bed was clear, with snow now only on the side mountains. As the trail turned around a sharp bend, I encountered a herd of bharals on the river bed busy eating. They did not expect any movement at that time and so were startled on seeing a group of people at such a close range. Immediately they took to the steep mountain side and were soon looking at us from a very safe distance. We continued on our way and I made full use of sandals which I preferred to wear this time round in spite of cold. By evening we were at Burtse camp and decided to give some rest to our weather beaten bodies. Another day spent at Burtse without any activity refreshed us and we left for Murgo next day morning after B/fast. I packed the shoes and took off in sandals. The walk started slowly but after some time I was able to increase my speed and then there was no looking back. I had the fear of crossing the water alone but due to bad weather and snow there was very less water in the river and crossing which on the way up had been quite an effort were very easy and I did not stop for any rest till I reached Kalon Chumik. I was at Murgo camp by 1300 hrs and it took only five hours to cover the distance. Well Murgo again required halt and so we moved out after a day’s rest. Well while we were at Murgo the weather had remained bad and it was snowing everyday which was creating confusion as to whether we would be able to cross the Saser la or not. The reports coming were not quite good.

Top Story continues : Murgo to Saser Brangsa

Karakoram Pass Photos Part I

Ladakh Trek Photo